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The emu (Dromaius novaehollandiae) is a large, flightless
bird indigenous to Australia, and emu oil has become an
important component of the Australian economy. As a result
there is research from that part of the world showing
it to be a good emollient that can help heal skin. But
along with the evidence that emu oil is a good emollient
and the parade of companies promoting it for that, there
are also companies promoting products containing emu oil
for its antiaging, antiwrinkling, and wound-healing properties.
So does emu oil live up to these acclaimed properties?
Regrettably, none of these promises are supported by research.
A study published in the Australasian Journal of Dermatology
(August 1996, pages 159–161), looked at the "Cosmetic
and moisturizing properties of Emu oil... assessed in
a double-blind clinical study. Emu oil in comparison to
mineral oil was found overall to be more cosmetically
acceptable and had better skin penetration/permeability.
Furthermore it appears that Emu oil in comparison to mineral
oil has better moisturizing properties, superior texture,
and lower incidence of comedogenicity, but probably because
of the small sample size these differences were not found
to be statistically significant. Neither of the oils were
found to be irritating to the skin." That's good,
but it's hardly a reason to run out and by a product containing
emu oil.
Another study, published in Plastic and Reconstructive
Surgery (December 1998, pages 2404–2407), concluded that
applying emu oil on a fresh wound actually delayed wound
healing, which is not a good thing.
On the other hand, a more recent study compared the anti-inflammatory
ability of emu oil with several other oils, including
olive and flaxseed. The oils were applied to mouse ears
after their skin was irritated with a volatile oil, and
cellular irritant response was measured several hours
later. The results showed emu oil had somewhat better
anti-inflammatory properties than the other oils in the
study, though not by a substantial margin compared to
more readily available oils, including olive (Source:
Lipids, June 2003, pages 603-607). Reducing inflammation
is a valid reason to consider emu oil, but other oils
(and several antioxidants) perform the same function.
Moreover, none of this means emu oil is the answer for
aging or wrinkled skin. Like many ingredients, it has
soothing, emollient properties, but it isn’t the miracle
marketers make it out to be.
Bottom line: Emu oil's reputation is driven mostly by
claims made by companies selling products that contain
it, and not by any real proof that it is an essential
requirement for skin.
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