But the joke is on us, because while "oil-free"
is a meaningless claim it may mislead consumers into buying
products that can actually clog pores. There are plenty
of ingredients that don't sound like oils but that can
absolutely aggravate breakouts. On the other hand, not
all oils clog pores. Yet, many cosmetics (anything that
isn't in a liquid form) contain waxlike thickening agents
that may clog pores. Simple, standard moisturizing ingredients
that are great for dry skin can cause problems for someone
with oily skin or breakouts. When any product looks like
a cream or a lotion (as opposed to a fluid), the ingredients
that give it that consistency may clog pores. Despite
the problems these ingredients can cause, they show up
in lots and lots of so-called "oil-free" products.
Above and beyond the products that claim to be oil-free,
label after label promises that the product is "noncomedogenic"
or "nonacnegenic." Most of us have bought products
with this assurance, only to find that they did cause
breakouts. I wish I could say otherwise, but the truth
is you can't trust any product that makes the claim that
it's not comedogenic because there is no approved or regulated
standard for that assertion.
Will It Make Me Break Out?
I have received a lot of questions asking if a specific
product will cause breakouts. It seems that many consumers
are curious about which comedogenic ingredients (meaning
ingredients known to clog pores) to avoid.
First of all, as stated above, you can't trust any product
that claims it's not comedogenic (or non-acnegenic), because
there is no approved or regulated standard for that assertion.
What many women already know is that trying to guess how
their skin will react based on a product's promises, especially
when it comes to blemishes, is truly a lost cause. Why
is it so impossible to find products that won't cause
breakouts? It's because almost all of the ingredients
used in cosmetics (except for water) can cause breakouts,
depending on your skin type.
While there is evidence that some specific ingredients
can trigger breakouts, there are no absolutes. I wish
there were but there aren't. There are some Web sites
that showcase lists of comedogenic ingredients, with the
major source of information most likely being Dr. Fulton's
Step by Step Guide to Acne, published in 1983 by Harper
& Row. At the time (and 1983 was a long time ago),
Fulton's research regarding the causes of breakouts was
unprecedented. Fulton applied cosmetic ingredients to
rabbits' ears and waited to see what happened. As promising
as this research was, it has never been repeated, and
is rarely cited in later research (except when it suits
a company's marketing agenda). There are many reasons
why lists of this kind are unreliable.
First, the methodology looked at pure concentrations
of the ingredient, not how the ingredient is used in actual
cosmetic formulations (usually a fractional amount). It
also didn't address the issue of usage and application.
Ingredients in a cleanser, left on the skin for a few
seconds, versus a lotion or liquid left on the skin for
hours, have very different exposure risks. The research
didn't look at the host of plant extracts or sunscreens
in cosmetics that were introduced later than the early
'80s. To call this list out-of-date and inconclusive would
be an understatement.
I have to admit that I'm also to blame for some of the
confusion. In my books I have included a list of ingredients
that may cause breakouts. I based this on the emollient
or wax-like characteristics of the ingredients, and on
findings from more contemporary research. I have warned
against products that contain ingredients such as triglycerides,
myristates, and palmitates, but I'm now wondering if it
was a wise list to include, because in some ways it is
also misleading information. For example, isopropyl palmitate
is a waxy thickening agent that is used to bind other
ingredients together, has an emollient feel on skin, and
is used most frequently in moisturizers for dry skin.
On the other hand, ascorbyl palmitate is a stable form
of vitamin C and is used in small amounts in skin-care
products, and is rarely a problem for skin. So much for
following the rule about palmitates!
Further, just because some ingredients are present in
a formulation may not mean much. If it is toward the end
of the ingredient list it probably won't do a lot of harm,
while if it's the second, third, or fourth ingredient,
it may be problematic. Also, keep in mind that even the
most notorious ingredients (such as isopropyl myristate)
won't cause problems for everyone. Just because an ingredient
may cause breakouts doesn't mean that it will.
Another factor these kinds of lists can't account for
is the fact that there are thousands and thousands of
cosmetic ingredients used in skin-care and makeup products
today! A lot of them are emollients, waxy thickening agents,
or irritants that can cause skin problems. A comprehensive
list would not only be impossible, it would be nothing
more than guesswork.
So, what's a person to do when trying to fend off blemishes
and still use skin-care and makeup products? While I still
think some ingredients are more problematic than others,
I think the easiest and most reliable practice for a consumer
to consider is consistency. The thicker the product (meaning
a high, creamy viscosity), the more likely it is to cause
breakouts. That means you can feel safer with a gel or
serum (meaning these have a low or watery viscosity).
It is also safe to assume that although a product with
plant or mineral oils of any kind at or near the top of
the ingredient list might make the skin feel greasy, greasiness
doesn't necessarily trigger breakouts. And finally, do
watch out for irritating ingredients. It doesn't take
much alcohol, balm mint, camphor, eucalyptus, grapefruit,
lemon, lime, menthol, or peppermint to cause a negative
reaction that can hurt the skin's healing process—and
that won't help heal blemishes.